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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.