Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
